Kanchanaburi and 109

We headed for Kanchanaburi, west of Bangkok, on an afternoon train from a small open air station hidden in the back neighborhoods of the city. When our train was in the station we climbed aboard the third class train (few run this route anymore) with wooden seats and open windows. We pulled out at a little before 2:00 for the three hour ride through the countryside of small towns and stations, with flat green land in betweenwith low mountains rising in the background as we got closer to our destination. Off the train, we were met by tuk tuk and pedicab drivers wanting to take us to our location. "Where you go?" I knew that Apple's Gueshouse was only a five minute walk, and told them where we were going. The man smiled and as we were out on the street wondering which way to walk, the driver pointed in the direction and said "Apple". Always helpful people. A short walk and we were there, being greeted by Noi, one of the owners, and shown our rooms. Our first full day was spent in a Thai cooking class with Micke. First, we went to the morning market to take a look at all the fresh offerings for the day's cooking.



















Here are the fruits, the meats, curries, and all else that the Thai come to buy daily to prepare meals. Interesting things that I saw--pigs heads, frogs, rabbits, and birds. Once
back at the guesthouse, we were shown many of the ingredients that are used in Thai cooking. Back to the kitchen!! Micke started with some soups--coconut soup with chicken (my favorite) and two more. Then on to three salads. One tuna and another one with fruit--both DELICIOUS! Then some curries--red, green and mussaman (my favorite!) as well as phad Thai. We all were stuffed at the end of this and ate and ate until we could no longer fit one more mouthful in!! Kanchanaburi is famous for the Bridge over the River Kwai and the site of the Thai Burma Railway. Over a hundred thousand people died in the building of this railway in WWII. The Japanese engineered it and used prisoners of war and Asian "recruits" to build the railway in 15 months, when previously it was thought that perhaps the bridge could be built in 5 years. Prisoners died of malnutrition, tropical diseases and untreated wounds. They were forced to work long hours with two small meals a day. The railway of 415 kilometers was in use only for 1 year, though some of it still is used for short commuter trains locally. We walked over the bridge on a narrow wooden path between the tracks. It was a little nervewracking.. as if you lost your balance, you could fall right through the metal forms that held the bridge and into the river for a swim! The small platform that I am standing on is used if you want to linger looking at the river or to get out of the way if a train is coming through (they come through slowly!). Our first day, we went to the local museum that informatively tells about the history of the railway, the cemetery which has gravestones for some of the thousands of allied troops that died, and to the bridge. Another day we went on a tour, which included Hellfire Museum another museum right by one of the sites where a stone cliff was cut though to make a pass for the railway to go through. Of course all this had to be done by hand tools, with limited use of dynamite. It is quite moving to walk through the pass and think about the men that worked and died here. After our visit to Hellfire Pass we went on to Erawan Falls Park, one of the most scenic parks in Thailand. It has seven tiered falls that you can climb up--one after the other till you reach the highest. Most of them are swimmable. With our tour, we walked up to number four and had a swim in the blue green pool while the fish nibbled at us if we stood still too long! It was cool and so refreshing! On the way down, we saw a troop of monkeys looking for food and gladly taking whatever the locals were handing off, and taking what they could--a bag of rice from one table! A half an hour later we were boarding the Death Railway that runs along the River Kwai. We asked to continue till the bridge and get off there, and paid our extra baht (all the tourists get off way earlier as the train has to wait for a Bangkok train to pass). When the tourists all got off, there was just us and a few adolecent Thai kids and their teacher. One of the young boys came over to us and was asking things that I was not quite clear about. I am one to just smile and answer yes... and as Rick thought he was asking if we like Thailand, I thought that worked out quite well! Another young girl gave us some wrapped banana crackers with her smile. As we pulled away with the now mostly empty train car, some beautiful scenery went by... white birds sitting in wet rice fields filled with the new spring green color of early rice, a field of marigolds (they use these a lot in offerings at temples), streams of sunshine from the clouds above the mountains, a small herd of cattle being urged from behind by two field workers to head toward home, tall dark green fields of sugarcane and corn. All the while we moved, there was the clacking of the older tracks and the gentle rolling of the car as it moved along. A huge golden Buddha sat up on a nearby hill surrounded by the green of trees, a beautiful temple atop another hill, with the ornate decorations that is part of each temple of Thailand, an old spirit house sat out in the middle of a farmer's field--still on a post. The train slowed up as it crossed the bridge, to make sure all people who were crossing on the rail line got up on the small platforms beside. It was great to be crossing the bridge on the train and watch the river from the window. Once off the train, we walked past the cars to get to the square. The young people that we had talked with were all leaning out the window and waving and putting their hands out to shake hands and say goodbye. We waved them off and got our mototaxi back to the guesthouse.

As I write this, Rick is on a plane over the Pacific on the way back home. His trip to the train station took two pedicabs--one for the luggage and one for him!

And, me... I am still in Kanchanaburi at the moment but considering that it is 103 degrees with humidity that makes it feel like 109--I am thinking I will head into Bangkok and had for the islands soon. I will meet up with a friend from Japan, Paulo, for a few days by the water which sounds like heaven!